Yohji Yamamoto "Caretaker" DEKAPOKE Knit

From "Caretaker," themed around memory, comes a piece using a vintage knit from Yohji Yamamoto 2005AW as its medium ↑

This season was a unique collection that seemed to be themed around the harmony between masculine dandyism and feminine décolletage.

It featured long knit sweaters with a feminine length for men, belly warmers, corsets, and shirts that revealed the navel.

This knit is a feminine-length sweater that symbolizes the season.
I loved wearing it, but it was prone to pilling, and I haven't worn it much in recent years.

What to do with a high-end brand knit that pills easily?

So, I decided to make it into a standard that could be worn outdoors,
I cut the fabric from its original length and reconstructed it into a large-pocket knit with flaps, a shape seen in French workwear ↑

Size: 3
Shoulder 50cm Sleeve 60cm Body width 55cm Length approx. 80cm

A blend of linen wool and polyurethane. It's a medium-thick knit woven with a fine mesh, and it's very warm.

Using fabric that was nearly 120cm long, I added flaps and large pockets. It's paired with Yohji's large horn buttons.

I also took the belly warmer from this season, added pockets, and made it into a vest.
The hem is asymmetrical because the fabric from four pockets was cut out, and knit scraps were added there.

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Originally, knitwear made from animal hair was workwear suited to the local region, but that regionality was lost with post-war economic development.

Now, most people see it as everyday wear, but this is a skeleton-like, punkish project that returns high-end ready-to-wear knitwear to the standards of workwear.

I was previously made aware that most men's clothing is made of military and workwear, and the works of Homme and Y's for men from the era when Mr. Yamamoto was involved.

YFM, especially in the past, was full of works that were like a culmination of French, British, American casual, and military styles, like a crossroads of "men's clothing" from all over the world.

In recent years, "femininity" and "feminine sensibilities" have flooded into Homme, and the collections take on the appearance of a comprehensive art form like an installation, as Seiichi Matsuoka said,

But Femme still stands as "woman."
It seems that "woman" for Mr. Yamamoto is always glimpsed.